Comportement thermodynamique et dimensionnel des matériaux textiles soumis à des variations des conditions climatiques

Abstract : The 2D deformation of bleached plain weave and Jersey cotton ready to wear clothing was measured during adsorption and desorption cycles. The strain along warp and weft directions and the shear deformation were evaluated by image correlation process. The dimensional variations are explained by geometrical consideration of the structure at microscopic (fibers scale) and macroscopic levels (yarns scale). Indeed, the reaction between water vapor molecules and material enlightens two steps. At first, the swelling fibers fill the micro pores inside the yarns. Then, the yarns swell and push on their neighbors to fill up the macro pores and cause the macroscopic swelling of the overall structure. During the desorption phase, the fibers shrink to create a free space inside the plain weave structure that will be relaxed to find its initial state. The shear deformation is related to the cohesion by twist between cotton fibers. The ironing generates flattened yarns and increases their friction which amplifies the deformation during the first adsorption cycle. However, this effect is cancelled at the end of the first adsorption / desorption cycle with no memory effect of the ironing process. These results are confirmed by comparison between sorption isotherms of ironed and not ironed plain weave samples. A comparison between the sorption capacity of Jersey and yarn made of the same structure shows that the geometric form decreases the sorption capacity of jersey especially at high humidity. Then knitting infects the swelling of yarns and decreases their sorption capacity.
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Naoufel Bhouri. Comportement thermodynamique et dimensionnel des matériaux textiles soumis à des variations des conditions climatiques. Autre. Université Henri Poincaré - Nancy 1, 2009. Français. ⟨NNT : 2009NAN10120⟩. ⟨tel-01748307⟩

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